Instructions
Metering Resin & Hardener
- Follow directions for pump installation and priming as indicated in the Metered Pumps Operating Instructions.
VERY IMPORTANT! When metering resin & hardener, depress each pump head fully and continuously to the bottom of its stroke. Allow the pump heads to return completely to the top of the stroke. Partial pump strokes will give the wrong ratio. Always use the same number of full strokes from each pump. Do not attempt to adjust the cure rate by altering ratio.
Mixing
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Stir the two ingredients together for at least 1 minute - longer in cooler temperatures. Scrape the sides and bottom of the pot to ensure a thorough mixing.
WARNING! Epoxy generates heat as it cures. Do not fill or cast layers of epoxy thicker than 1/2". Several inches of mixed epoxy confined in mass (such as a mixing cup) will generate enough heat to melt a plastic cup, burn your skin or ignite combustible materials if left to stand for its full pot life. For this reason, do not use foam or glass mixing containers or pour into confined spaces. If a pot of mixed epoxy begins to exotherm (heat up), quickly move it outdoors. Avoid breathing the fumes. Do not dispose of the mixture until the reaction is complete and has cooled.
Additives
- When using EpoxyHeads Thickener, High-strength Filler or Easy-sanding Filler, mix the desired quantity of resin and hardener thoroughly before adding thickener or filler. Begin with a small batch to allow room for the filler. Blend in small amounts of the additive until the desired consistency is achieved.
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Add EpoxyHeads Gray Pigment to the mixed resin/hardener at a rate of approximately one teaspoon of pigment to 8 fl oz of epoxy. More pigment will increase opaqueness and mixture viscosity. One 4-fl. oz. bottle of pigment will tint approximately 1.5 gallons of epoxy. To increase opacity, you can either add more pigment to your resin & hardener mixture, or apply multiple coats of tinted epoxy.
Surface Preparation
To ensure a strong bond, surface prep is very important. More specific surface preparations are listed below, but the basic steps are as follows:
1. Clean Surfaces must be free of any contaminants (such as grease, oil, wax, etc). Clean surfaces before sanding to avoid contaminating the substrate.
2. Dry All surfaces must be as dry as possible for adhesion. If necessary, use a hair dryer, heat gun or heat lamps to dry the bonding surface.
3. Sanded Sand smooth non-porous surfaces - thoroughly abrade the surface. 80-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper provides a good texture for the epoxy to grab onto. Be sure the surface to be bonded to is solid - remove any flaking, chalking, blistering or old coating before sanding. Remove all dust after sanding.
Special Preparation for Various Materials
Cured Epoxy - When epoxy cures, a wax-like film called Amine blush may appear. It is merely a byproduct of the curing process and may be more noticeable in cool, moist conditions. Amine blush can clog sandpaper and inhibit subsequent bonding, but it can easily be removed. It's a good idea to assume that it has formed on any cured epoxy surface.
To remove the blush, wash the surface with clean water and an abrasive pad, such as Scotch-brite
Epoxy surfaces that are still tacky may be bonded to or coated with epoxy without washing or sanding. Before applying coatings other than epoxy (paints, varnishes, etc) allow epoxy surfaces to cure fully, then wash and sand.
Hardwoods - Sand with 80-grit sandpaper. Remove dust.
Treated woods - Make sure the wood is dry (use heat lamps if necessary) and sand with 80-grit sandpaper. Remove dust.
Oily woods - Wipe with acetone 15 minutes before coating. Solvent removes the oil at the surface and allows the epoxy to penetrate. Be sure solvent has evaporated before coating.
Porous woods - No special preparation needed. If surface is burnished, possibly by a dull planer or saw blade, sand with 80-grit sandpaper to open pores. Remove dust.
Steel, lead - Remove contamination, sand or grind to bright metal, coat with epoxy, then (wet) sand freshly applied epoxy into the surface. Re-coat or bond after the first coat gels.
Plastic - Adhesion varies. If a plastic is impervious to solvents such as acetone, epoxy generally will not bond to it. Soft, flexible plastics such as polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon and Plexiglas fall into this category.
Hard, rigid plastics such as PVC, ABS, polycarbonate and styrene provide better adhesion with good surface preparation and adequate bonding area. After sanding, flame oxidizing (by quickly passing propane torch over the surface without melting the plastic) can improve bonding in some plastics.
With the materials listed above, or for any surface you may be unsure of, bond a test piece before starting a major project.